What's it really like?
Just 15km north of Koh Samui lies Koh Phangan, famous for monthly Full Moon Party that draws up to 30,000 visitors from all over the globe. But there is so much more to gay Koh Phangan. From picturesque beaches with stunning views of the Gulf of Thailand and the surrounding islands, to tropical jungle forests that are home to an array of exotic animal and plant life, Koh Phangan is far more than a party destination.
In recent years, along with the monthly party crowd, Koh Phangan has also been drawing a fast-growing number of gay travelers who are more ecologically minded. Declared a part of an organic island movement, Koh Phangan is steadily becoming a green ecological paradise with respect being the driving motto that feeds the balance on the island.
Thong Sala is the main town, with everything from gay owned/friendly restaurants and bars, gay resorts, and even a small gay beach within easy distance. Smaller, respectful, more intimate parties and live music events cater to those who aren’t into the heavy “party party” scene.
In terms of public tolerance and acceptance of homosexuality, Thailand is one of the most welcoming countries across Asia. As with many countries, acceptance of LGBT individuals is more widespread in urban areas, such as Bangkok.
As a whole, Thai people value discretion and non-confrontation, so no one should give you any hassle for being seen together. That said, public displays of affection – both straight and gay – are frowned upon.
Male and female same-sex activity is legal in Thailand however gay marriage is not legal yet. Bangkok Post reports that “…while Thailand is viewed as a tourist haven for same-sex couples, the reality for locals is that the law, and often public sentiment, is not so liberal.” LGBT residents of Thailand and Bangkok are not offered equal legal protections offered to non-LGBT (straight) people.
Getting an HIV test in Koh Phangan is not as easy as in bigger urban hubs like Bangkok and Phuket, but is still quite straightforward. The island has several hospitals and clinics, namely Bandon International Clinic and Siam International Clinic in Haad Rin and the confusingly named Bangkok Hospital Samui Clinic in Baan Tai. All are used to dealing with tourists – English-speaking staff are likely, but not guaranteed. You can also go to one of the five hospitals on Koh Samui. The public Samui Hospital in Na Thon holds an STD clinic on Thursdays 13:00 – 16:00.
Thailand has one of the highest prevalences of HIV in the Asia and Pacific region, and almost 50% of all new HIV infections are amongst gay or bisexual men, male sex workers, and transgender people. HIV infection rate among gay men living in Thailand is as high as 24%. This means nearly 1 in 4 gay men are living with HIV. Condom and lube are widely available across Thailand and Bangkok, with all 7 Elevens and supermarkets stocking them.
Koh Phangan is smaller than Samui, but is still large enough that its areas are relatively self-contained. Many tourists just come for the Full Moon Party and leave right away, but those who extend their stay are rewarded with a beautiful, laid-back island life that is almost as fun as the beach parties.
Haad Rin – Haad Rin actually has three beaches, the largest of which is the location for the monthly Full Moon Party, as well as several other smaller parties throughout the month. When the parties aren’t on, there is still a good selection of bars and clubs to keep things entertaining. There are some good accommodation options across all budgets in the area, but hotel rooms go very fast (and for very inflated prices) around the full moon.
Thong Sala – Thong Sala is the main town in Koh Phangan. It has a quirky and bustling vibe, with a good range of bars, restaurants, and shops, and a few gay nightlife options. It has a pleasant, laid-back beach town vibe, but it’s not the best place for actually going to the beach.
Hat Yao and Hat Son – Hat Yao is a relatively busy beach on the north coast, with just enough development to make it convenient while still feeling quiet and laid-back. It is great for swimming, snorkeling, and lounging in the shade of a few swaying palm trees. Hat Son, a little further south is smaller and even quieter, although families with children are common.
Bottle Beach – “Haad Khuat” in Thai, Bottle Beach is only accessible by boat from Chalok Lam or by an intense hike from Haad Khom. There is a road, but it is terrible and a songthaew there is far pricier than the boat. It is a beautiful, isolated beach with almost no development and some wonderful bargain accommodation options.
Haad Chao Phao – A small and relatively quiet developed beach in the northwestern coast, a little south from Hat Yao and Hat Son. It is just busy enough to have some nightlife while remaining isolated enough that you are not constantly surrounded by the party crowd.
Ban Tai – The longest stretch of beach on the island, although much of it belongs to resorts, bungalows and hotels. Plenty of accommodation options to suit all budgets, a handy 7-11, and a good selection of bars. Many travelers choose to stay here as it is only a five-minute drive from the ferry port and a twenty-minute drive to Haad Rin and the Full Moon Party.
Ferry – The island is only accessible by ferry, and most visitors arrive either from Koh Samui or the mainland pier at Don Sak. You have a few options to reach Phangan from other major hubs in Thailand: either fly to Koh Samui (expensive), fly to Surat Thani (cheaper), or take a bus or train to Surat Thani (cheapest). There are bus lines to Don Sak both from Surat Thani airport and the town. Combination train and bus tickets that include your ferry fare are a convenient option.
Songthaew – The island’s whole transport infrastructure is its extensive fleet of songthaews. Songthaews, or sorng-taa-ou, are a familiar sight throughout Thailand’s islands. Somewhere between a bus and a tuk-tuk, they are beloved by tourists and a good place to strike up a conversation with fellow travelers. You can hail a songthaew from any road on the island (you won’t have to wait long) and most trips cost 100 – 200B. There are also plenty of them at the Thong Sala pier, and a steady queue at the larger beach parties. Drivers will be familiar with most bars and hotels around the island, and will drop you off where you need to go.
Motorcycle Taxi – Motorcycle taxis operate throughout the island and are a cheaper alternative to the songthaew. They are, however, operating illegally – avoid these to stay on the safe side.
Motorbike Rental – Renting a motorbike is a rite of passage of sorts for tourists in Thailand. It is reasonably cheap – about 150 -250B a day in Koh Phangan – and allows for far greater flexibility and independence. However, it is worth noting that Thailand has some infamously dangerous roads and infamously reckless drivers. Accidents are common and rental does not tend to include insurance. Make sure to wear a helmet, for basic safety but also because you may be fined if you don’t. Also, this should go without saying, but do not rent a motorbike if you have never driven one before. Yes, people do it all the time, and yes some rental companies will turn a blind eye, but it is illegal and not a particularly smart move.
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